Years ago when I lived in London I used to frequent a small newsagent-cum-delicatessen run by a Turkish family. From under a glass counter at the front of the shop they sold freshly-made pastries and, as it was directly opposite where I worked at the time, it was a convenient lunch stop. Among the regular read more…
You can reasonably expect most recipes to include directions on both the temperature that your oven should be at and the length of time it should take for the goods to be optimally baked. It wasn’t always so. The gas and electric oven-cookers we are familiar with today are a relatively recent innovation. Back when read more…
Working with soft, sticky bread doughs – those containing 70% or more water by weight of flour – can be tricky. When it comes to shaping the loaf, you need to flour your hands and worksurface to help prevent the dough sticking. The problem is, even if you take care to distribute an even layer read more…
Last night I went to see musician and composer Richard Skelton perform with the Elysian Quartet at Snape Maltings, the concert hall founded by composer Benjamin Britten in 1967. Skelton’s music, which is inspired by the landscape, flora and fauna of the Pennine hills, is not often performed live, so this was a rare opportunity. read more…
Named after the town of Eccles, a few miles west of Manchester, Eccles cakes are thought to date back to the late 18th century when a gentleman by the name of James Birch began selling them to an enthusiastic public. Patties made from flaky pastry wrapped around a sticky filling of spiced currants, Eccles cakes read more…
In my last post I talked about Sekowa ‘Special Baking Ferment’ and how to prepare a starter with it. Once the starter is established it can be stored in the fridge until required, and doesn’t need to be revived as a refrigerated sourdough starter does. But how do you actually make bread with it? The read more…
As I mentioned a few posts ago, I’ve been experimenting with an alternative form of yeast, Sekowa ‘Spezial-Backferment’ or ‘Special Baking Ferment’. Made from ground wheat, maize and peas and dried honey, it is a sort of dried starter culture, but not quite a sourdough. The yeast in the baking ferment comes from the honey. read more…
I have a thing about books. I have lots of them, and I acquire new ones far more quickly than I can read them. Mostly I buy secondhand for reasons of economy. Sometimes, when the target is obscure and out of print, it’s the only option. After years of searching and procrastinating, I have finally read more…
Everyone recognises the French macaron, the almond-and-meringue based confection sandwiched together with buttercream that looks so chic in a rainbow of different colours on the counters of shops such as the famous Ladurée. Like so much associated with French cuisine, the macaron is delicate, refined – and very difficult to make properly. Macarons have a read more…
The lame, or grignette as it is sometimes known, is a humble tool of French origin, which is used to make slashes in proved bread dough before it enters the oven. A lame is basically a razor blade on a stick. It’s pretty simple and, as a result, the design of lames tends towards function read more…
